Category: Japan

  • Japan Day 3: Ogi Park & Travel to Beppu

    Japan Day 3: Ogi Park & Travel to Beppu

    Saga

    Saga is a beautiful prefecture that previously served as a major site for Samurai training and is known for its pottery. The main town of Saga is centralized around castle ruins from the Edo era that are available for touring. We stayed at The New Otani Hotel which was right on the moat of the castle grounds. For the first time this trip, we awoke to sunny skies with a stunning view of the moat and castle grounds.

    Breakfast the Hotel The New Otani was buffet style with – believe it or not – gluten free labels on each food item! All the fruit and vegetables were extremely fresh. They provided house-made kale and tomato juice with local produce. Saga is known for its tomatoes and that showed nicely in what was the best tomato juice I’ve ever had. Though it was a bit pricey, I would highly recommend this hotel and breakfast buffet for any celiac or gf/veg person visiting Saga.

    Ogi Park

    After a lovely breakfast, we caught a cab out to the small town of Ogi, about 20 minutes away, to visit Ogi Park to observe Sakura (cherry blossom season)! This park did not disappoint. Between beautiful islands in the lake to walkways lined with cherry blossoms forming arches over the path, the sights were stunning. There were almost no other tourists in the area, so if you are looking for a unique spot to visit the cherry blossoms, this is it.

    Ogi Park Cherry Blossoms
    Ogi Park Lake

    After a magical morning in Ogi Park, we packed our bags and head to the train station to make our way to Beppu for the start of our 5-day Buddhist retreat.

    Beppu

    Beppu is known for its onsens, natural hot springs, of which there are more than 2,500 in Beppu alone! And though we plan to explore many onsens during our time here, we came to meet Zen Master Yodo from Beppu Zen Retreat to immerse ourselves in the world of Buddhism and monastic life.

    Yodo was extremely kind and picked us up at the train station. We then proceeded to the main guesthouse and dinner house for our orientation and first dinner of the retreat. We started to learn the ways of setting the table and table rules that would be our new normal for the next 5 days.

    Table Settings at Beppu Zen Buddhist Retreat

    Our first question-answer period with Yodo focused mostly on the natural threats and dangers in Japan, and how to deal with them should they arise during our stay. We were treated by 6 other fellow guests from around the world (Germany, Spain, Netherlands, USA), who we are excited to get to know more about throughout our stay here.

    We had an early night at our guesthouse to get some much needed sleep after a few jam-packed days of travel. Next: 0700 morning meditation at the temple!

  • Japan Day 2: Tokyo & Travel to Saga

    Japan Day 2: Tokyo & Travel to Saga

    Searching for breakfast

    After constant rain since our arrival, we were happy to wake up to more of a drizzle this morning. Coffee & breakfast was our mission before catching an afternoon train to the South Island of Kyushu.

    Unfortunately, our mission turned out to be a bit more complicated than expected. For whatever reason, many breakfast places in the Ginza area of Tokyo do not open until 1100. With a 1230 train, we didn’t feel like we would be able to squeeze in a sit down restaurant, so we ended up getting a bunch of snacks from 7/11 instead.

    I will say, the 7/11’s and Lawson’s here have lots of grocery-store level food with clear labels that we translated using Google Translate Lens. If you’re looking for an ingredients list, they are usually in the top row of the box of writing, so you can zoom in on that with your camera to make it easier to read.

    Here’s a list of places that did NOT have gf/veg options:

    We did find one place that was promising and open before 11, but unfortunately there was a 1-hour wait list, so it didn’t work out for us. However, it looked really tasty, so if you’re in the neighborhood, I’d recommend checking out bills Ginza, an Australian restaurant.

    Coffee

    Though not a one-stop excursion, we had better luck with coffee. We started off at Glitch, a recommendation from an American we ran into the day prior. Unfortunately for us, there was a massive line outside the shop that was time-prohibitive. But if that’s any indication of the quality of the coffee, it must be excellent!

    While wandering around looking for breakfast, we came across Teron Coffee & Bar Ginza, which was a wonderful experience (review pending). There is certainly no shortage of excellent coffee in Japan!

    Ultimately, we planned to try a place that advertised gluten free ramen at the train station. Our plans were foiled by a mile-long lineup that was preclusive to us catching our train. So, we found a mediocre stand up sushi bar, in a desperate act compromised our vegetarian nature for fish, and went on to catch our train.

    Shinkansen

    If you know me, you probably know that I am a huge train geek – and this train is sure one to geek out about. Using electricity to propel an aerodynamic set of cars at speeds of up to 300 km/h, we soared through southern Japan, from Tokyo to Hakata on the South Island of Kyushu. In a rush to get tickets, we got the “green car” thinking that was some sort of environment preserving fee, but was in fact a first class ticket in a car with fewer passengers, extra leg room, and heated seats that recline farther back than they probably should. I spent most of the 5-hour train ride looking up high speed train facts and staring at the Japanese countryside. The cherry-blossom scattered hills and nearby ocean were a delight to take in the entire ride.

    Canal City

    For dinner in Hakata, we followed some Google recommendations to Canal City, a massive mall with a combination of outdoor fountains and indoor cavities among retail shops. Though the mall itself was an excellent experience, we had a bit of an unusual experience for dinner at Ramen Hidechan (review pending). They do have two gluten free options – cabbage soup and tofu noodle soup. We ordered one of each. Though somehow, lost in translation, we ended up with “gnarly” broth that we later discovered was pork-fat laden. After an unintentional affirmation of our choice to be vegetarian, we ended our meals and proceeded to try to find something to cleanse our palate.

    Cabbage Soup in Pork Broth (WHOOPS!) at Ramen Hidechan

    100% Gluten Free Churros

    We were absolutely delighted to find a gluten free churro shop on the main floor of Canal City. Danny’s Churros (review pending) offers 5 flavours of churros that can be made into custom arrangements and powdered in colours of choice. They are all made fresh to order and wrapped individually for a special touch. We opted to go for the mini set of 5 to try all the flavours, which were all excellent!

    If you are celiac in Hakata, definitely stop by this 100% GF facility to treat yourself to the rare find of GF churros.

    Danny’s 100% GF Churros in All 5 Flavours

    After we finished our dessert and cleansed our palates from the accidental pork ingestion with heavenly churros, we made our way back to the train station to complete our trip with a 1-hour train to Saga. We made it to our lovely hotel The New Otani without difficulty, and slept almost immediately.

  • Japan Day 1: Tokyo

    Japan Day 1: Tokyo

    April 2, 2025

    After a very rainy arrival (I’m talking wind-blown horizontal whipping you in the face kinda rain), we were happy to wake up to just a drizzle this morning. Newly motivated to leave the hotel room, we started off with our favourite morning ritual: coffee.

    Taoca Coffee

    Taoca Coffee Mug and Shop

    We were delighted to visit Tokyo’s only Taoca coffee location. Started in Kyoto, this popular and modern coffee shop was an experience like no other. We had never seen a pour over bar before (see image below):

    Pour Over Bar

    Though we were tempted to get a cup of every single bean, we managed to resist and limit ourselves to four.

    First, I tried Geisha coffee (Lot: 299) for the first time. These beans were from a farm in Panama founded by a fellow Canadian! The coffee was masterfully extracted for a complex, smooth finish that was satisfying down to the last drop.

    Next, we moved on to the Sakura blend, a seasonal blend created for the local cherry blossom season. Easy to say this was the most floral coffee I’d ever tasted and it was delicious. Bag of beans? You know we got some.

    A darker roast was used to make a cappuccino that was equally delightful and smooth.

    After conversing with the barista for quite some time and getting to know the store, we were very lucky to be offered a cup of house blend on the house! The cup was made in a beautiful self-cleaning automated machine (see below).

    Coffee Machine at Taoca

    Even the house blend was wonderfully extracted!

    Brown Rice Tokyo Omotesando

    Next, we went for lunch at Brown Rice Tokyo Omotesando – see my review at the hyperlink. It was a serene, aromatic experience. We even met a fellow North American who was traveling from San Francisco. We shared photos of our pets and recommendations for coffee shops. Stay tuned to see our next stop tomorrow!

    Team Labs – Planets

    Team Labs was an experience of a lifetime. This fully immersive art museum was both physically and mentally engaging, joyful, and loads of fun! If you are looking to feel like a child again, this is the place for you.

    Climbing Steps at TeamLabs

    From drawings that come to life in 3D animations to walking barefoot through water exhibits, your attention will be fully captured by the present moment and all the colourful surroundings. All the exhibits were well staffed and organized, making it easy to proceed through the museum. I was very impressed by how so many people managed to move through the exhibits without difficulty.

    Rubber Ball Gym at TeamLabs

    If you are visiting, I would recommend doing the exhibits in the order that we did: Athletics Forest, Garden, Water, Open Air. Doing the physical activity first was very grounding, and then each exhibit became more peaceful after that.

    Vegan Ramen Uzu

    Afterwards, we had dinner at Vegan Ramen Uzu that you can read about at the hyperlink.

    Akihabara/Anime District

    As a big-time childhood anime fan, going to the anime district was a must while in Tokyo. We opted to go at the end of the day for scheduling reasons, but it’s important to note that most stores close there at 8 pm. I’ve been given the advice to go on Sunday afternoon when the roads are closed for shopping, which would probably have been better. However, I do think it was cool to see the street lights in the dark!

    We visited a couple toy shops but ultimately spent most of our time at the Mandarake Complex. This anime store is 8 floors and buys back anime merchandise of all kinds from manga to CD/DVDs to dolls, each organized onto a different floor (see below):

    Mandarake Complex Anime Store Floor Chart

    We ended up coming away with a few goodies, including my all time favourite anime Sailor Moon manga!

    Sailor Moon Toys at Mandarake Complex

    After a long day, we made it back to our hotel and getting ready to leave Tokyo for our next adventure in the morning.

    Good night!

    Celiac CJ

  • Vegan Ramen Uzu

    Vegan Ramen Uzu

    Tokyo, Japan

    Delicious ramen with gluten free noodles available, but boiled in the same water as gluten-containing noodles, so not the most celiac safe. After a wonderful afternoon at team labs, where this restaurant is located, I opted to take the risk and get the ramen anyway. I have to say, it was very tasty with peanut-flavoured broth that adds the flavour and weight that can be hard to achieve without meat! The vegetables were grilled, which added even more flavour complexity. For dessert, we went for the matcha coconut ice cream and strawberry sorbet. If you’re only going to get one flavour, I’d recommend the matcha coconut as it was thickened nicely by the coconut milk. Overall, an excellent place to check out if you’re not strict with your celiac disease or are gluten intolerant.

    Spicy Miso Ramen
    Matcha Coconut and Strawberry Vegan Ice Cream

    Google Review: https://maps.app.goo.gl/bZ7ooCoYMfCFAgMA9?g_st=ic

  • Brown Rice Tokyo Omotesando

    Brown Rice Tokyo Omotesando

    Brown Rice Tokyo Omotesando

    Tokyo, Japan

    Fresh, simple ingredients masterfully combined to create complex dishes to be enjoyed in the peaceful garden area or indoors. As a vegetarian (not vegan), I didn’t feel like the eggs or dairy were missing from the dishes at all. They were tasty all on their own! Gluten free items were not labeled, but the staff were knowledgeable about menu items that were safe or not. I went with the seasonal vegetable curry with rice, that is already completely gluten free. I was told the other lunch options may be made gluten free without the sauce (soy sauce containing). Sadly, we had to skip out on dessert for time reasons, but they did have a fully vegan and gluten free dessert menu also! As a bonus, the outdoor seating area was heated, next to an essential oil store that provided a relaxing aroma, and absolutely beautiful with all the plants filling the area. I would definitely recommend this spot to anyone celiac and/or vegetarian travelling looking for lunch in Tokyo. It would be best, however, to make a reservation. We were lucky to walk in and get a table right away, but there was a quite a line by the time we were done our meal. Happy eating!

    Seasonal Vegetable Curry
    Ichiju Sansai/A Traditional Japanese Meal
    (pictured with gluten but can be made gluten free)
    Restaurant Entrance

    Google Review: https://maps.app.goo.gl/JSEzqu19hef8VHwy5?g_st=ic